The positive trend of growing number of GOTS-certified facilities continued, and for the first time GOTS can report data on the number of workers in certified operations.
The number of facilities certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) kept growing last year, from 3,663 facilities in 2014 to 3,814 facilities in 2015. GOTS is recognised worldwide as the leading processing standard for textiles made with organic fibres. GOTS certified facilities are now located in 68 (63 in 2014) countries around the world. Growth is evenly spread across all market segments including the mass market and the big brands. GOTS certification enables consumers to purchase items that are certified organic from field to finished product.
Countries or regions with the largest increase in GOTS certification in 2015 are (in the rank order): India (+74), Europe (+58) Turkey (+27) and Bangladesh (+21). The Top Fifteen countries in terms of the total number of GOTS certified facilities are: India (1,441), Turkey (489), Germany (306), Bangladesh (210), China (201) Pakistan (142), Italy (141), Portugal (89), South Korea (80), Japan (65), USA (60), France (56), UK (49), Austria (49), Denmark (41).
“Again, the figures show that GOTS’ credible and independent certification of the entire supply chain is an important driver for the business case for sustainability – in contrast to mere self-claims”, says Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director.
To date the GOTS accredited independent certification bodies report 847,749 people working in 2,799 GOTS-certified facilities. The number is likely to reach one million when the final figures are received.
“This number is a further indication of the relevance of the Global Organic Textile Standard, in addition to the number of GOTS certified operations. We will, with the co-operation of the independent GOTS certifiers and academic research, collect and report additional data in order to demonstrate GOTS’ ecological and social impact”, notes Herbert Ladwig, GOTS Managing Director.
India remained the top country for eighth year in a row with 1,441 GOTS certified facilities. On the policy front, the Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) notification in the first week of May 2015 explicitly excluded organic textiles from the new procedures for export of organic products. GOTS has appreciated this industry friendly move and GOTS label is being used for export of textiles made from organic fibres from India.
In India the interest in GOTS certified organic textile products is on the rise both among consumers and the industry. India also witnessed an increase of brands and stores selling GOTS-certified textiles in retail. Mumbai hosted highly successful 1st International GOTS Conference in May 2015, which was attended by 250 representatives from 12 countries.
Bangladesh has moved up from the 10th place in 2010 to the 4th place in 2015. The brands are having consistent interest in sourcing organic textiles in Bangladesh and the benefits of GOTS standard are reaching out to more workers in certified facilities in the country.
Marcus Bruegel, GOTS Technical Director, has left his position February 15, 2016. Marcus was with GOTS from the start and has contributed tremendously to its growth and stature. His role in the successful establishment of GOTS as a globally recognised label has been exemplary. Acknowledging his pioneering contribution, Marcus was given a fond farewell by the GOTS family with best wishes for his future at the annual meeting of GOTS on February 13. Rahul Bhajekar has been appointed his successor and will be responsible for the further development and quality assurance of GOTS, including environmental and social aspects. He has more than 21 years of experience in textile testing and chemical restrictions, as well as in implementation of GOTS with manufacturers, processors and chemical companies. Rahul has been familiar with GOTS since 2005 and served as a member of the GOTS Technical Committee for several years. One of his first major tasks would be to spearhead upcoming revision of the GOTS version 4.0.
GOTS is the stringent voluntary global standard for the entire post-harvest processing (including spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and manufacturing) of apparel and home textiles made with organic fibre (such as organic cotton and organic wool), and includes both environmental and social criteria. Key provisions include a ban on the use of genetically modified organisms (GMOs), highly hazardous chemicals (such as azo dyes and formaldehyde), and child labour, while requiring strong social compliance management systems and strict waste water treatment practices.