Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a voluntary global standard that is applicable in the post-harvest processing of certified organic cotton and wool including spinning, knitting, weaving, dyeing and manufacturing processes.
In 2020, a record number of facilities were certified with GOTS taking the number up by 34% globally. The number is registered at 10388 from 7765 in 2019. Over 3 million people in more than 72 countries are working in GOTS certified facilities, reported 16 GOTS Approved Certification Bodies.
GOTS approved chemical inputs now stand at 25913 indicating an increase of 13% in 2020. This confirms that the inputs are increasingly used as a risk management tool by wet processors to satisfy legal and commercial residue requirements.
Claudia Kersten – MD, GOTS says: “The exceptional increase in this unprecedented year shows that the decision makers value GOTS as an important tool to drive sustainable transformation in a comprehensive way – from field to fashion. Using organic fibres and processing them under strict GOTS criteria definitely provides a credible and strong base for market players to be successful in the future.”
GOTS 6.0, to be implemented from 1 March 2021, includes stricter social and environmental criteria. Certified entities will now have to calculate the gap between wages paid to ‘Living Wages’ and will be encouraged to work towards closing this gap. Specific references to OECD Due Diligence Guidance and Good Practice Guidance for Social Criteria and Risk Assessment as well as Ethical Business Practises have been explicitly included.
South Asia Region
The South Asian Region (India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh and Pakistan) owns the maximum volume share in GOTS certification. Despite the pandemic, the region has witnessed an addition of 1173 facilities, counting 5116 certified facilities in 2020 which was 3943 in 2019.
The growth demonstrates the acceptability of GOTS on a regional and global level, despite the challenges faced in 2020. There is a growing demand for GOTS certified products.
The top 10 countries for certified facilities include India (2,994), Bangladesh (1,584), Turkey (1,107), China (961), Germany (684), Italy (585), Portugal (449), Pakistan (391), USA (167) and Sri Lanka (126).
Several Indian brands from the retail sector are in the process of becoming GOTS certified. India remains in the leading position in terms of GOTS certification, from fibre to final product besides approved dyes and chemicals.
Bangladesh witnessed a significant growth of 32%. In Sri Lanka, the industry has taken preventive measures to handle the impacts of the pandemic.
The industrial uniqueness and togetherness helped the overall growth of the textile industry in the region. An increase of 103%, with 62 new GOTS certified facilities, is proof of the positive business scenario.