In 2018, Applied DNA Sciences, Inc. and New York’s Fashion Institute Technology announced in a peer-reviewed paper published by AATCC citing that DNA molecular tagging can be an effective tool to authenticate denim even after the original fiber was made into yarn and then bleached and manufactured to finished fabric. Using its advanced molecular tagging technology, Applied DNA Sciences has continued to expand the use of its CertainT platform that provides forensic identity to virtually any type of textile at any point within the supply chain.
We met the Chairman, President and CEO of Applied DNA, Dr. James A. Hayward, to learn more about what makes DNA a unique and invaluable technology for the textile industry and beyond. In a nutshell, Applied DNA, like its name connotes, applies DNA to provide unique molecular business solutions to uncertainties faced by companies in ensuring quality, authenticity and integrity of products and protecting their brands and intellectual property.
“Companies are in the spotlight to prove their claims. Most supply chains have based their sourcing and supply chain management systems on a reliance on paper-based certification. We see this happening in textiles as well as many other supply chains pressured to perform under razor-thin margins while claiming to be sustainable and transparent. The truth is that unless you can prove it on the product itself, it’s difficult to claim that it comes from a trusted source,” stated Dr. Hayward.
Applied DNA is not a textile company. It is a biotechnology firm that provides molecular business solutions by synthesizing unique molecular tags or tracers, and then utilizes forensic methods to verify the material that has been tagged. It is not so different from digital barcodes that we see on packaging. Dr. Hayward said: “The DNA we make is like a molecular barcode and when this molecule is applied onto the textile fiber it becomes an indelible molecular certificate that travels in or on the fiber all the way to the finished product.”
However, this groundbreaking molecular technology did not come from the textile industry. About a decade ago, Applied DNA’s commercial journey started in a lab on Long Island to help solve crimes in the UK. Cash and valuables are typically transported in cash boxes typically provided by security companies. Often times, these cash boxes are stolen or tampered with in transit. Approached by the security industry, Applied DNA began to create unique molecular tags based on DNA that would provide one unique tag per cash box. In short order, when criminals were caught by the police, the DNA ink-stained stolen cash or items could be linked to the exact date time and place when the cash box was stolen.
“Most of the stolen notes were stained with ink and also washed with heavy solvents by criminals trying to remove the evidence of their crime. Some of the notes were made out of cotton and polymer-based materials. We were able to authenticate the banknotes after washing and in some cases, many years after the crime was first committed. This made us think – if you could authenticate this on banknotes, why not textiles?”, stated Dr. Hayward.
From cash crimes to government supply chains for high performance microcircuits, the range of applications is quite remarkable. The company has patented technologies to apply DNA into different formats such as ink, varnish, and now textile treatments. The ability to manufacture their own DNA using the proprietary PCR-based manufacturing is where it all begins.
Dr. Hayward disclosed: “It’s parts per trillion. We just need to create one species of molecule to tag billions or trillions of fibers. This makes traceability at a global scale possible. The ability to create forensic identity for your brand or company makes a lot of sense because if it’s got your name on it, then it should have your own DNA.”
Working with several textile partners in India, Applied DNA established a Central DNA testing Laboratory in Ahmedabad. The laboratory was established a year ago in Gujarat (a major economic focal point for industries dealing in textile, fertilizers, petrochemicals and pharmaceuticals) with the goal of providing forensic authentication services and expanding the company’s global textile business in the Asia-Pacific region.
Dr. Hayward said: “India’s dominance in the textile industry as well as its relevance in pharmaceutics is why we are excited and ready to collaborate with partners that will benefit by utilizing our CertainT platform.” He also stated: “We crossed a significant milestone in 2018 when we transitioned into the market of man-made fibers from that of natural fibers within the textile category. Synthetic fibers represents a new opportunity, and to give them the specific identity that DNA can convey was a big step for the company.”
Starting in home textiles, Applied DNA has partnered with GHCL for recycled PET in bedding, and the Himatsingka Group for cotton in home textiles. GHCL, being a perennial innovator of quality bed linen, has collaborated with Applied DNA Sciences and launched a new line of bedding products made from cotton and recycled polyester. The products, which come under the brand category Rekoop are sustainable, traceable and innovative in nature as they use the integrated CertainT platform from Applied DNA Sciences which helps in verifying the authenticity of the product from source to retail.
The use of recycled polyester in the entire manufacturing process of Rekoop bedding is good for the environment as it helps in reduction of plastic pollution, and the end-consumer can be certain that they are buying a product that is true to its claim.
Apart from GHCL, the Himatsingka Group has also partnered with Applied DNA Sciences to manufacture cotton products using the company’s patented SigNature T DNA technology, which ensures cotton purity of the product at each point throughout the supply chain.