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The Textile Magazine
OctoBER 2011
3 yarn clearer, 100 per cent of the
produced yarn can be tested for key
quality parameters. On the one hand,
this identifes production problems
for further machine setting optimi-
zation, while on the other hand it
prevents faults in the fnal product
by removing any remaining disturb-
ing defects. In addition, it allows for
constant monitoring of production
to ensure that the fnal product is
of consistent quality within defned
limits – any ‘outliers’ from these
limits caused by defective bobbins
are identifed, and corrective action
can be taken.
The root causes of problems iden-
tifed during clearing (process step
/ machine / individual spindle) can
only be found through additional
laboratory tests. Thus the Total
Testing loop is completed.
From varying to consistent quality
Another feature of Total Testing
is its ability to progress from vary-
ing and random quality to consist-
ent quality. The required quality can
occasionally be achieved through a
combination of experience and luck,
but such an approach never leads
to consistent success. Natural cot-
ton variations and differing produc-
tion conditions mean that even the
best raw material and machinery are
not a guarantee of consistent qual-
ity. Consistent quality depends on
managing the available resources
in accordance with quality and cost
parameters and making decisions
based on facts, data and know-how.
Uster Technologies Ltd. is the
only company to provide both the
application know-how and the com-
plete range of laboratory testing and
process monitoring instruments to
minimize waste and cost, while at
the same time reproducing an arti-
cle to a specifed quality, time after
time. Quality parameters based on
tests conducted in the lab, together
with the results from clearing (Uster
QUANTUM 3) give clear indica-
tions of how to choose the right mix
of raw material and set the machine
for consistent quality. Any qual-
ity exceptions, such as uneven yarn
or wrong counts or contaminants,
are monitored all the while and re-
moved at the winding machine, as-
suring stable quality for customers.
Built-in know-how and smart soft-
ware (e.g., Uster QUANTUM EX-
PERT 3) enable further optimization
opportunities across machines (ideal
settings / machine performance
comparisons), between production
sites and incrementally over time for
an entire mill.
From subjective to objective quality
Among the biggest and most cost-
ly problems in textiles are claims for
below-par quality – and the adverse
effect they have on the trust between
buyers and sellers. Indications are
that quality-related costs in the tex-
tile value chain can amount to as
much as 6% of a retailer’s total rev-
enue (based on retailer statements).
The issue is two-faceted: the actual
quality and the perceived quality.
And unless a common reference or
benchmark is used, agreement will
never be achieved and the producer
will always get the rough end of the
stick.
More than 50 years ago Uster
Technologies established the frst
quality standard specifcally for tex-
tiles, Uster STATISTICS, provid-
ing quality references that enable
the classifcation of fbers, slivers,
roving, and all kinds of yarns (cot-
ton, synthetic and cellulosic) based
on data from producers around the
Mr. Reine Wasner,
Executive Vice President, Marketing and Business Development
ITMA 2011
[exclusive feature]