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The Textile Magazine
APRIL 2012
|
69
the trend towards
energy saving and
the use of suit-
able technologies.
Global
textile
machinery manu-
facturers such as
Oerlikon
Tex-
tile were quick
to recognize this
and
introduced
the “e-save” en-
ergy
efficiency
programme way
back in 2004
(www.e-save.oer-
likontextile.com).
Machines bear-
ing this label now
save significant
energy compared
with similar rival
machines or older
product genera-
tions.
Other innova-
tions are also
being
designed
logically with a view to maximis-
ing efficiency and productivity and
are market leaders for the most part.
One big advantage of energy-inten-
sive textile production is that if the
manufacturing costs of a finished
textile fabric are considered, energy
is responsible for around a quarter
of all the resources used, including
work, production means and con-
sumables.
Cost reduction and sustainability
are necessary in the textile industry
for natural fibres for other reasons
too. In view of the historical price
explosion for cotton last year, the
global textile industry is adjusting
to a higher average price level in fu-
ture. In addition, forecasts indicate
that the global acreage under cotton
cultivation can only be enlarged to
a limited extent due to the delimita-
tion of usable agricultural areas to
guarantee the supply of food and
water. Both of them additionally
weaken cotton in the competition
with the markets for polyester and
viscose, which are growing stronger
anyway.
On the other hand, cotton should
and can exploit its attractiveness as
a natural fibre better now, because
surveys prove that consumers regard
natural fibres above all as environ-
mentally friendly textiles, but not
synthetic fibres. The sector has al-
ready reacted to this. In the space of
four years, the production capacity
for organic cotton has increased glo-
bally from 20,000 tonnes to 141,000
tonnes, for instance. Major textile
dealers are now also establishing
corresponding eco-labels to a grow-
ing extent.
Studies suggest that over 60 or-
ganizations are now offering more
than 75 eco-programmes and labels.
For example, 2,800 participants in
54 countries are certified as com-
plying with the globally recognized
minimum standard for natural tex-
tiles, GOTS (Global Organic Textile
Standard; source: The Fiber Year
2011).
Attention is focused more strong-
ly on such socially significant eco-
logical challenges following envi-
ronmental disasters such as in 2011
in Japan or in 2010 in the Gulf of
Mexico. Studies for Germany show
that suitable sustainable action is
an increasingly important factor for
success on many levels.
For example, around 38 per cent
of German companies that adopt a
particularly sustainable business ap-
proach have increased their operat-
ing result (EBIT) for 2009 and have
a better EBIT than their competitors.
For 47 per cent of managerial staff,
the adoption by a company of an eco-
logically, socially and economically
responsible approach to business is
a crucial or very important factor in
their choice of employment. And in
2013 it will be important or very im-
portant to 76 per cent of customers
and employees that companies take
an ecologically correct approach.
Companies like Oerlikon that sub-
scribe to the principles of economic,
ecological and social sustainability
are thus on track for lasting business
success.
Oerlikon is a leading high-tech
industrial group specializing in ma-
chine and plant engineering. It is a
provider of innovative industrial
solutions and cutting-edge technolo-
gies for textile manufacturing, drive,
vacuum, thin film, coating and ad-
vanced nanotechnology.
A Swiss company with a tradition
going back over 100 years, Oer-
likon is a global player with more
than 17,000 employees at over 150
locations in 38 countries and sales
of CHF 4.2 billion in 2011. The
company invested in 2011 CHF 213
million in R&D, with over 1,200
specialists working on future prod-
ucts and services. In most areas, the
operative businesses rank either first
or second in their respective global
market.
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spinning